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This roadside crag is one of the major cragging destinations of the Anti-Atlas for those looking for high-quality single-pitch climbs with a short walk-in. The rocks face SW, and are at low altitude so are often warm even when winter weather makes the higher crags rather unpleasant. The rock is pale, compact quartzite with a more granite-like feel than the higher crags, so climbing here is of a slightly different style. Many climbs here are just yards from the road, and there are over 65 routes to choose from between Moderate and E5, though the best climbing is in the mid to upper grades. Amongst the best routes are...

Pandora's Box (HVS 5a) - A good varied route on Olympia Buttress, featuring very varied climbing on good rock.

Will Scarlet (VS 4c) - A short but excellent little pitch.

Oxford Crack (VS 5a) - One of the best hand-jamming pitches on quartzite at this grade, with a well-protected but tricky crux.

Centenary Buttress (HS 4b) - A justifiably popular 2-pitch climb up the front of an excellent buttress, with fine climbing and good belays.

Dog's Day Out (E2 5c) - One of the crag's big, classic E2 ticks takes an uncompromising line up the Overhanging Buttress, with fine, varied climbing throughout.

Owl Crack (E1 5c) - A magnificent wide crack climb, just about adequately protected with a combination of huge cams and tiny small gear. Low in the 5c grade, particularly for the tall.

Sheriff's Wall (Severe) - Only severe if you keep your head, this brilliant line is bold in the absolute extreme, and a big tick at this grade.

Hello Picasso (E4 6a) - The testpiece groove on the south wall of Roadside Buttress is one of the crag's big lines, and much sought-after tick. Fairly safe if you can fiddle the gear in, and some good rests makes it feel not too much like hard work!

Dead Arm on the Panic Button (E3 5b) - A wonderfully cruel pitch up the blank wall right of Hello Picasso. Bold, unprotected moves above a hideous landing are amongst the finest you'll ever find... but defintely best if you don't panic...

Above and Beyond (E2 5c) - A short but sweet crack climb, with lovely moves on small holds, with bomber gear.

Take it Easy (HS 4b) - A delightful little pitch.

Lyin' Eyes (VS 4c) - The once-vegetated crack up the front of Bishop's Buttress is something of a testpiece VS, with very challenging moves to get established. Easier for the tall.

Orbital (E3 5c) - A popular climb producing much grade debate. The gear seems OK... or does it? The moves are either desperate and irreversible if you get it wrong, or not too bad if you find the sequence first time round. Either way it's no walk in the park.

Bishop's Balcony (HVS 5a) - Looks about E1, but turns out to be about VS. Well-protected, stupendously steep climbing through the roof crack. Awesome jugs await...

Live and Let Die (E3 6a) - Hard, hard crack-climbing that swallows all the gear you can carry, but tends to spit out climbers with disgust.

Die Another Day (E4 6a / E3 5b) - One of the crag's most contentious climbs, and suprisingly also one of the most popular! The inital wall is easy but very, very bold, and requires faith and luck in equal measures. From bomber gear most people escape up left at E3 5b, but the original (slightly artificial) way goes up right on increasingly small holds at E4 6a.

Saracen (HVS 5c) - A super 2-pitch solution to the Saracen Buttress, with a desperately hard initial crack and arete.

Vertigo (HVS 5c) - An alternative 2nd pitch to Saracen. Good bridging.

Magic Carpet Ride (E5 6b) - Exquisite hard, bold climbing up a fine blunt arete. The gear is just about adequate at this grade, though shorties will have to dyno near the top, and hope the thin flake holds if they miss! One of the crag's great climbs.

The following route was recorded in the Tafraoute New Route Book by John Wilkinson (OAC) and Andre Ike, October 2010...

Senior Member's Variation

A worthwhile variant up the Centenary Buttress. Start up Varsity Games, but where that route goes right, traverse up left to finish up the left side of the slab - a long pitch!

Bishops Bypass (Vs 4b) An easier alternate pitch to Bishops balcony. Start from the left side of the balcony step down and traverse left to a pock marked hollow flake. Then climb straight up the the wide crack line on good holds and gear. Ian Dugdale, Lee Healy Feb 2011

New routes on the buttress up behind Olympia:

Cristal (E3 5b) **** The stunning arete at the right side is one of the many superb extremes at Robin Hood.

The groove to the left and next buttress left of that have also been climbed... details to come...